Walking East Journal


Mar 2010 26

Foncebadon

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Light drizzle began as I left Molinaseca this morning. It came and went and the sun came and went as I climbed almost 1000 meters (3280 feet) on a road to cross the mountains to the Leon side. The views were great but I was really waiting for a view from the very top where I made a movie of thousands of flowers when I walked this way in 2003. Had I made a movie today it would be a recording of white and nothing more. I was met by heavy snow and wind on the top.
 
That snow didn’t get lighter. At one point late in the afternoon I heard what seemed to be a huge clap of thunder followed by an especially heavy dump of snow. Interesting, I have never been in a storm with only one thunderclap.
 
Just before that thunderclap I met a group of maybe a hundred school kids walking up the road to see the Cruche de Fero. They stopped and talked and a bunch had their picture taken with me. The excitement of youth.
 
I came down into Foncebadon, an almost ghost town, in close to a white-out conditions. When I saw the Hostel Convent, I thought it was closed and I would have to opt for the private alberge if it was open. But the Convent was open and I got a room with heat and a restaurant just downstairs. And it even has an Ethernet connection here in the middle of nowhere.
 
As I entered the hostel I met one of the dogs of Foncebadon. You have to read Paulo Coelho or Shirley McLane for the details on these dogs here if you don’t already know about them.
 


 
As I mentioned earlier, to see pictures of some of these places I am talking about, go to my 2003 writings on the Camino de Santiago as I walked it then.

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