Walking East Journal

Mar 2010 14

From western Spain

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I am walking against the traffic. Even though there are many on the road, I am not in contact with any for a very long time. It is a good way to be alone while being among many–when you want to do that.
Santa Irene – 13 Mar
It was a pleasant, easy walk today to this municipal alberge. I wanted to go to the new private one but it is closed. So I have settled for this noisy place on the road where I stayed once before as I walked in 2003. The next place is a long 15 km (9 mi) up the road and it was already four when I got here. At 3 kph (2 mph), my average speed today, that is five hours, well after dark. So here I am and here I shall stay.
For the six hours I walked today, I counted fellow users of the Camino: 16 bicyclists, 48 long distance pilgrims, and 71 day pilgrims, 135 in all. For me the difference between the distance walker and the day walker is the backpack the distance walker has and the day walker does not.
Ribadiso – 14 Mar
The weather remains ideal in the mid-60s (16 C) with bright sun most of the day and light wind. As I approached this Ribadiso alberge late in the afternoon, I knew I had to stop and rest beside a calm river and sit in the sun at its inviting restaurant patio. Tomorrow I can go farther. Tonight I am here.
As for my experience in the the alberge last night, it was livable. The windows were closed through the night but there was little traffic sound and the dead air was not all that dead even though we were five in a room fit out for six.
I didn’t count those passing me today, but the numbers were likely similar to yesterday.

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